Re: Sump Pump Question

On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 21:12:03 -0400, Paul Franklin wrote:

> On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 06:13:13 -0400, "Robert Green"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>My new "Water Ace" R33SP submersible sump pump has a little label on the
>>bottom that says "air vent must be cleaned periodically to prevent air
>>locking."
>>
>>How often is that? Are all sumps pumps like that or should I return
>>this for one that doesn't require hauling out of the sump pit to clean?
>>From what I see we are talking about a 1/8" opening that seems like it
>>should be labelled "guaranteed to clog as soon as warranty expires."
>

Its as often as it clogs. There is no need to clean it if its not
clogged. Depends on how dirty your water is.


> The vent has to be small because it is on the outlet side of the pump
> and allows water to flow back into the sump. FWIW, I've never had one
> clog. I suppose if you have a lot of mud and gunk in the pit it may
> clog occasionally.

I was under the impression this vent was to allow air to be pushed out of
the exhaust pipe in case it got filled with air. That way the pump can
continue to work. Without that hole, the pipe can get filled with air
between the pump and check valve, and be incapacitated.


>
> Not all pumps have the vent built in; some just tell you to drill a 1/8"
> hole in the output pipe below the check valve.

I drilled the hole. They didn't tell me what size though..

>
> In general, it's a good idea to pull the pump at least once a year to
> inspect it, and to clean the input filter screen anyway. Just take a
> nail and poke it through the vent hole when you've got the pump up. And
> while it's out, clean any major gunk out of the pit. A messy job, yes,
> but better than a flooded basement.
>
> HTH,
>
> Paul


None of my pumps had any sort of screen on them. Thank goodness because
my sump is basically a mud pit. I have installed a cleanout in the pipe
so I can snake it once a year to get the mud out... In my case I have to
clean my pump once a year too. However, the sewage ejector pump seems to
be staying much cleaner.

I tried out my new Zoeller non-automatic .3 hp sump pump, and the
instructions say to drill a 3/16 hole on the discharge pipe about
equal to the top of the machine. I did this, and not only does it
reduce the discharge pressure, but it makes an irritating spraying
sound when the water level drops below that point and the water sprays
against the side of the pit. Instructions say that this hole is
required to deal with air buildup when used in conjunction with a one-
way valve. Does anyone have an opinion on if the hole is really
needed?

On another note, I didn't know that the the pump I was replacing was .
5 hp, and it appears that the lower hp of my new pump results in a
dramatic drop in pressure. Interestingly, the old pump is actually an
automatic unit with a float switch, where they just taped up the
switch in an always-on position so that the on/off function is left to
the separate switch unit that the pump is plugged into. I didn't
discover this until I pulled out the old pump and found the float
switch taped to the discharge pipe.

the hole is not needed.

s


"AE Todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0586ac6f-54f0-447f-b92b-086aaea2055d@k30g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>I tried out my new Zoeller non-automatic .3 hp sump pump, and the
> instructions say to drill a 3/16 hole on the discharge pipe about
> equal to the top of the machine. I did this, and not only does it
> reduce the discharge pressure, but it makes an irritating spraying
> sound when the water level drops below that point and the water sprays
> against the side of the pit. Instructions say that this hole is
> required to deal with air buildup when used in conjunction with a one-
> way valve. Does anyone have an opinion on if the hole is really
> needed?
>
> On another note, I didn't know that the the pump I was replacing was .
> 5 hp, and it appears that the lower hp of my new pump results in a
> dramatic drop in pressure. Interestingly, the old pump is actually an
> automatic unit with a float switch, where they just taped up the
> switch in an always-on position so that the on/off function is left to
> the separate switch unit that the pump is plugged into. I didn't
> discover this until I pulled out the old pump and found the float
> switch taped to the discharge pipe.

On 7/18/2008 9:15 PM Steve Barker DLT spake thus:

> "AE Todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:0586ac6f-54f0-447f-b92b-086aaea2055d@k30g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
>>I tried out my new Zoeller non-automatic .3 hp sump pump, and the
>> instructions say to drill a 3/16 hole on the discharge pipe about
>> equal to the top of the machine. I did this, and not only does it
>> reduce the discharge pressure, but it makes an irritating spraying
>> sound when the water level drops below that point and the water sprays
>> against the side of the pit. Instructions say that this hole is
>> required to deal with air buildup when used in conjunction with a one-
>> way valve. Does anyone have an opinion on if the hole is really
>> needed?
>
> the hole is not needed.

What he said. I've installed two of those same pumps, and the people at
the plumbing supply store I bought them at said to ignore those
instructions. They work just fine without any extra holes.

Go ahead and plug the hole (find a screw and mash it in, or drill & tap
if you're a little more on the anal side; stainless screw for
perfectionists).


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

On Jul 19, 12:52 am, David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 7/18/2008 9:15 PM Steve Barker DLT spake thus:
>
> > "AE Todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:0586ac6f-54f0-447f-b92b-086aaea2055d@k30g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> >>I tried out my new Zoeller non-automatic .3 hp sump pump, and the
> >> instructions say to drill a 3/16 hole on the discharge pipe about
> >> equal to the top of the machine.  I did this, and not only does it
> >> reduce the discharge pressure, but it makes an irritating spraying
> >> sound when the water level drops below that point and the water sprays
> >> against the side of the pit.  Instructions say that this hole is
> >> required to deal with air buildup when used in conjunction with a one-
> >> way valve.  Does anyone have an opinion on if the hole is really
> >> needed?
>
>  >
>  > the hole is not needed.
>
> What he said. I've installed two of those same pumps, and the people at
> the plumbing supply store I bought them at said to ignore those
> instructions. They work just fine without any extra holes.
>
> Go ahead and plug the hole (find a screw and mash it in, or drill & tap
> if you're a little more on the anal side; stainless screw for
> perfectionists).
>

I wouldn't be so quick to say that the hole is not needed with all
pumps under all circumstances. The small hole is there to prevent
air lock. With a check valve, if the sump goes dry, the section of
pipe between the pump and the check valve will fill with air.
Depending on the pump, this air could prevent the pump from picking up
enough water to get going. In essence the pump could remain air
locked and not pump while the basement floods. IF it happens depends
on the pump design, how deep in the water the pump sits, etc.

I;ve had pumps that did not have the air escape hole and worked
fine. But I'd read the pump directions and/or consult the
manufacturer and play it safe.





> --
> "Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
> endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
> It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
> the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
> doodle. It is balder and dash."
>
> - With apologies to H. L. Mencken