Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?

Bob Vila would love this group, post #106,227
Author:
Date:
Subject:
 bent
 2008-07-06 16:05:32
 Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
I need to brighten/ bleach my pine picnic table 2"x12"x8' boards that have
the blackened water marks, etc. before I finish with Spar. Its great to see
after its done so. I have liquid pool chlorine, which does a great job of
whitening, but may have its own drawbacks (maybe not), but someone mentioned
oxalic acid instead. The problem with pool chlorine is that the poly
doesn't stick after, but I've only ever done it once or so to know whatever
I did or didn't do didn't adequately rid/neutralize it. Again someone
mentioned sanding. I could work chlorine in earlier to the overall re&re
process this time. I probably did nothing or a light water rinse before,
&/or maybe a light sand. Again any further comments about neutralizing for
either the chlorine or oxalic acid, or any other product. Oh ya, and where
do I get it in Toronto? Not LV, CT, HH, or HD!

Has another used or will recommend buying the accessories that you can buy
from Lee Valley for sharpening a cabinet scraper? I think I can sharpen and
flatten the scraper alright without extra tools. Just need a good flat file
after it is normal and true then take a few final level swipes. But I have
yet to get a piece of (round) metal stock of hardness greater than the
scraper for putting the crucial finish on it, and you just can't find
something anywhere around the whole house can you. There are two (2) items
I think might do the job, a piston wrist pin or a valve lifer, form an
automobile, but don't know if either is a good fit. To get the hook I get
the feeling (experimenting with a kitchen knife sharpening tool) that a load
of exertion is required, and then there is the skill level too. I'm no
craftsman but for getting rid of bondo on a door jamb there is no other
tool, and the list goes on. But I wish I could get mine working right;
barely useable as a paper weight when I am done with it currently. So here
are the LV products. Are they good investments? About $37 for a sharpener!
Or should I get to the auto rebuilders with a fiver?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32633&cat=1,310,41070
Veritas® Variable Burnisher
05K37.01 Not the round one (to make a hook cuz I've made better with a
blow torch and stair railing)

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32631&cat=1,43072,43089
Veritas® Jointer/Edger
05M07.01 I am pretty sure I don't need this (for flattening/truing)


BTW Is the simple act of posting here in NGs lately causing my junk mail
quantity to increase? You can e-mail me an answer if you wish!?


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Author:
Date:
Subject:
 dpb
 2008-07-06 15:39:45
 Re: Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
bent wrote:
...
> oxalic acid, or any other product. Oh ya, and where do I get it in
> Toronto? Not LV, CT, HH, or HD!

Many of the deck cleaners that HD had last time I was painting were
oxalic-acid based. Can't imagine they don't have the crystals, either,
but I don't know Toronto. If not, any full line paint supplier
certainly should...

--
Author:
Date:
Subject:
 bent
 2008-07-06 16:50:55
 Re: Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
Any notes on neutralizing this stuff after so the Spar poly will stickum
goodly?


"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:g4rane$jp1$1@aioe.org...
> bent wrote:
> ...
>> oxalic acid, or any other product. Oh ya, and where do I get it in
>> Toronto? Not LV, CT, HH, or HD!
>
> Many of the deck cleaners that HD had last time I was painting were
> oxalic-acid based. Can't imagine they don't have the crystals, either,
> but I don't know Toronto. If not, any full line paint supplier certainly
> should...
>
> --


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Author:
Date:
Subject:
 dpb
 2008-07-06 16:50:23
 Re: Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
bent wrote:
> Any notes on neutralizing this stuff after so the Spar poly will stickum
> goodly?
...

Water, water, water...

Never had any problem, but normally am painting. Don't see why should
be any different. Prepare surface as suggested by finish manufacturer.

--
Author:
Date:
Subject:
 Edward Hennessey
 2008-07-06 19:12:34
 Re: Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
bent wrote:
> Any notes on neutralizing this stuff after so the Spar poly will
> stickum goodly?
>
b:

Use a sodium bicarbonate slurry. If you want to be exact, get some ph
strips (try your
local nursery) and test on the runoff from a section to determine what
concentration
it takes to get your residual solution either near neutral or to the ph of
your tap water.
Baker's supply stores have bicarbonate in economical larger quantities.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey
>
> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:g4rane$jp1$1@aioe.org...
>> bent wrote:
>> ...
>>> oxalic acid, or any other product. Oh ya, and where do I get it
>>> in Toronto? Not LV, CT, HH, or HD!
>>
>> Many of the deck cleaners that HD had last time I was painting were
>> oxalic-acid based. Can't imagine they don't have the crystals,
>> either, but I don't know Toronto. If not, any full line paint
>> supplier certainly should...
>>
>> --
>
>
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Author:
Date:
Subject:
 bent
 2008-07-07 00:42:41
 Re: Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
So you are telling me that you are aware that this problem specifically
exists, and this is a precise proven remedy? I have had the problem and if
this is serious (as opposed to a suggestion) I will probably take this
advice. I must be sure this is not in the early stages of an educated guess
before I can and will rely on it.
Q1>
This (specifically) is serious advice?

Is this for either of the chlorine &/or the oxalic acid solution? because
I'm inclined to go directly to the chlorine solution, because I know it is
effective colour- (brightening) wise. However I don't know what the oxalic
acid method is like, and the latter adhesion? I don't know if the Cl not
sticking is a pH thing requiring your solution, but I can see why the oxalic
acid is a pH thing (acid<>pH)!?
Q2>
Does this solution advice pertain to my Chlorine "brightening" previous
non-adhesion problem?

I already have test strips for pool water. They read pH with a dipped strip
compared to five swatch colours on the back of the bottle: 6.2 6.8 7.2 7.8
and 8.4, but with colours it is easy to see if the pH is on either side of
the scale.
Q3>
So is this the type of strip that's gonna work?

I think I have carbonate something also from the pool chemical supplies.
Hey, is this a joke... ok I have....there's bottles labeled literally "pH
Up" which contains "sodium carbonate", "pH Down" which contains "acid
sulphate of soda". I had a post about a week ago in alt.home.repair about
pool chemicals & pH.
Q4> Is a sodium carbonate slurry the right stuff?

Sorry I didn't mean to get carried away. TIA. I am grateful to have
learned this. This pool stores web page has "pH Down", "pH Up", and "Insta
Test", the same type of stuff I already have. Found at interpools.com,
using the search text string "pH Up":

http://www.interpools.com/webstore.taf?string=pH%20Up&_UserReference=C0A8DE8446B41EE65E19B0ED992348719C13

>
> Use a sodium bicarbonate slurry. If you want to be exact, get some ph
> strips (try your
> local nursery) and test on the runoff from a section to determine what
> concentration
> it takes to get your residual solution either near neutral or to the ph of
> your tap water.
> Baker's supply stores have bicarbonate in economical larger quantities.
>
> Regards,
>
> Edward Hennessey


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Author:
Date:
Subject:
 Edward Hennessey
 2008-07-07 00:02:37
 Re: Where to get oxalic acid in TO; LV cabinet scraper tools needed?
bent wrote:
> So you are telling me that you are aware that this problem
> specifically exists, and this is a precise proven remedy? I have had the
> problem and if this is serious (as opposed to a suggestion) I will
> probably take
> this advice. I must be sure this is not in the early stages of an
> educated guess before I can and will rely on it.
> Q1>
> This (specifically) is serious advice?
>
> Is this for either of the chlorine &/or the oxalic acid solution? because
> I'm inclined to go directly to the chlorine solution, because I
> know it is effective colour- (brightening) wise. However I don't
> know what the oxalic acid method is like, and the latter adhesion? I
> don't know if the
> Cl not sticking is a pH thing requiring your solution, but I can see why
> the oxalic acid is a pH thing (acid<>pH)!?
> Q2>
> Does this solution advice pertain to my Chlorine "brightening"
> previous non-adhesion problem?
>
> I already have test strips for pool water. They read pH with a
> dipped strip compared to five swatch colours on the back of the
> bottle: 6.2 6.8 7.2 7.8 and 8.4, but with colours it is easy to see if
> the pH is on either
> side of the scale.
> Q3>
> So is this the type of strip that's gonna work?
>
> I think I have carbonate something also from the pool chemical
> supplies. Hey, is this a joke... ok I have....there's bottles labeled
> literally "pH Up" which contains "sodium carbonate", "pH Down" which
> contains
> "acid sulphate of soda". I had a post about a week ago in
> alt.home.repair about pool chemicals & pH.
> Q4> Is a sodium carbonate slurry the right stuff?
>
> Sorry I didn't mean to get carried away. TIA. I am grateful to
> have learned this. This pool stores web page has "pH Down", "pH Up",
> and "Insta Test", the same type of stuff I already have. Found at
> interpools.com, using the search text string "pH Up":

B:

I haven't seen your prior post. Short answer, your best advice is always
from the
manufacturer of the paint you intend to finish with.

What I am saying is if you want to make your substrate as neutral as it can
be given
the nature of its composition, the bicarbonate will balance the oxalic acid
and, quite
likely, so will your base (carbonate) pool chemicals. And, yes, your pool
test strips
will work here.

One chemical reason chlorine and fluorine
are used in potable water is because halogens combine destructively with
many other contaminating elements, including those in bacteria. If you
painted over a deck with
chlorine still wetted in the substrate, that would not be good. Neither
would painting anything wet to begin with. Not that you would do either of
those two things. However, since the halogens have a short life in the
atmosphere because of their reactivity. Sun and oxygenation should degrade
them quite rapidly. If you wash any wood with energetic chemicals, you
should rinse heavily and let it get about 3 days of a good sun drying
before thinking of painting and then you should be
good to go.

Frankly, I've not used the oxalic approach since I've never had a situation
that couldn't be addressed
by a good wash with clean water and detergent, rinsing and drying. But if
you decide to use the oxalic
approach and are worried about residuals after rinsing, the addition of a
slurry of neutralizing bases
and a good rinse will address that.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey