Author: Date: Subject:
parametriceq@NOhotmail.com
2008-05-30 17:01:36
Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
Howdy,
I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
faders have dead spots on the upper end.
The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
bad?
If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?)
Thanks
the ol...
- parametricEQ
Author: Date: Subject:
David Morgan (MAMS)
2008-05-30 17:12:01
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:kac0441nhd0obj03ohng6r7b4j1c13t3lv@4ax.com...
> Howdy,
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
If you're forced to use these channels, you may have to push the input
gain a bit and keep the fader below the scratchy point. Don't clip the
input in taking this advice, that would only be worse.
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
It's shot, and repairing it is pretty much a lost cause, expense-wise,
even though the 3282 is a nice big desk. It's also a very brittle and
bright sounding board... a bit less than 'musical' in it's operating
characteristics. It will, however, do nicely until you run out of good
channels or functioning parts.
> If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
> Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?)
I thought the manual said they were "sealed". (?) If so, there's nothing
that you can do to get at the problem. If they were metallic tracks, they're
probably rusted... if they were carbonized plastic, they're likely just
decayed and crumbling apart, in which case, nothing can restore the
conductivity. Somehow though, I really doubt they're fully sealed... but
the problem is not likely one of dust or grime, but one of decay.
--
David Morgan (MAMS)
Morgan Audio Media Service
http://www.m-a-m-s DOT com
Dallas, Texas (214) 662-9901
_____________________________
http://www.januarysound.com
Author: Date: Subject:
Arny Krueger
2008-05-30 19:40:53
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
"David Morgan (MAMS)" <findme@m-a-m-s.comC/Odm> wrote in
message news:BzW%j.35$%Z1.1@trnddc05
> It's shot, and repairing it is pretty much a lost cause,
> expense-wise,
> even though the 3282 is a nice big desk.
Let's see - a new replacment would run less than $600. It would cost about
$80 just to get a tech to look at it.
The logical thing to do would be to replace all 32 faders. At $10 each,
that's another $320 parts only, and parts at fire sale prices.
Bottom line, the 3282 owner would be out $400 plus labor for removing and
replacing 32 faders. That will sum to being close to or in excess of $600.
If you pick this option, what the 3282 owner ends up with is an old desk
with new faders. :-(
Bottom line - equipment like the 3282 is only economical to repair in
warranty, unless the problem is truely trivial.
Author: Date: Subject:
Scott Dorsey
2008-05-30 14:10:28
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
>their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
>faders have dead spots on the upper end.
They do that, yeah.
>The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
>can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
>bad?
They aren't really very well sealed. You can try squirting Cramolin
in them, or CaiLube, but don't expect it to last all that long. These
consoles are basically designed to be disposable, but care and cleaning
will keep them alive a little longer.
>If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
>Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?)
The way the faders on these work, the control moves the actual tap,
which sits right on top of the resistive element. The case of the
fader holds the tap inside and scrapes against the fader when it moves.
It's not like a professional fader where the knob moves along a rail
and moves the tap along it. Consequently, all you need to do to clean
it is to stick the nozzle into the slit in the panel, squirt a little
Cailube in, and move the control up and down. The element is right under
the slit, which is part of why it gets contaminated so easily.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Author: Date: Subject:
Eeyore
2008-05-30 20:18:38
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
[email protected] wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
>
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
Probably just 'worn out'.
I should think the cost of repair will come close to replacement so you
might care to consider a more durable model next time round or one that's
more easily repairable.
Graham
Author: Date: Subject:
Mike Rivers
2008-05-30 19:39:51
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
[email protected] wrote:
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
More likely that they're going bad, but no slide fader that cheap is
truly sealed. You can probably find a hole or a crack to spray some
contact cleaner/lubricant in but that's only a temporary measure.
--
If you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring and reach
me here:
double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo -- I'm really Mike Rivers
([email protected])
Author: Date: Subject:
Tim Perry
2008-05-31 00:10:32
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kac0441nhd0obj03ohng6r7b4j1c13t3lv@4ax.com...
> Howdy,
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
>
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
>
> If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
> Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?) 112560
>
> Thanks
> the ol...
> - parametricEQ
Although this is a moderately priced mixer replacing a few pots should be a
4 hour job at the most.
While you 'might' be able to spray you troubles away a thorough job requires
disassembly and at that point you might as well have spare sliders on hand
for replacement.
Next you can take apart some of the old pots and determine the fault.
Sometimes cleaning and relubing is sufficient. Other times the resistive
material is worn away and/or contact finger stock is bent or missing.
Often there is evidence of coffee or other beverage inside the pots and on
the bottom cover.
Author: Date: Subject:
Eeyore
2008-05-31 10:01:19
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
Tim Perry wrote:
> Although this is a moderately priced mixer replacing a few pots should be a
> 4 hour job at the most.
Have you ever opened one of those up ?
Although it's a little bigger, The Midas Venice recently retired from my local
venue to due to intermittent pots is rated as 8 hours work (by the UK
distributor) simply to disassemble and re-assemble before evm being able to do
any work on the PCBs.
Graham
Author: Date: Subject:
Mike Rivers
2008-05-31 10:18:34
Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
Eeyore wrote:
> Although it's a little bigger, The Midas Venice recently retired from my local
> venue to due to intermittent pots is rated as 8 hours work (by the UK
> distributor) simply to disassemble and re-assemble before evm being able to do
> any work on the PCBs.
This is why people WANT to do this sort of work themselves and ask how
on newsgroups and forums. I try to discourage anyone who has to ask what
to do, but they usually manage to either bungle through the job anyway.
Either they solve the problem (albeit temporarily) or they mess it up,
but had already resolved that it was going into the dumpster so it was
worth a try.
There's no reason why someone with patience and experience with
electronic servicing (not necessarily on the specific product) can't at
least do some exploratory surgery but you don't want to have to tell
them which screws to remove (and which ones not), how to use a volt
meter, how to check continuity, and how to remove a ribbon connector
without further damaging it. Most of us with the old knowledge don't
have that kind of patience any more, but maybe there are some newcomers
who don't mind typing out a couple of pages of disassembly instructions
30 times or so. <g> of course
--
If you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring and reach
me here:
double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo -- I'm really Mike Rivers
([email protected])
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