Is there a hi-temp expanding foam on the market?

Fred Mann <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a small hole in the exhaust manifold right where it attaches to the
>engine -- actually a small piece of the gasket is missing. There's a little
>space in there that would seem ideally suited to accept a dollop of foam.
>The foaming insulation at the hardware store can only deal with temps below
>200 degrees. Is there anything out there with a higher temp rating?

No. A foam would not work well over a wide temperature range, because the
gas inside the bubbles would expand and contract a lot.

You might consider red RTV, but really the solution is to replace the gasket
and do it right.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!

Fred Mann <[email protected]> wrote:
>Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
>undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
>I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!

If it's severely rusted, any filler you put on is going to adhere only
to the rust, not to the metal underneath. And the rust is not a solid
substrate and will not hold it on very well.

That is part of why the JB Weld is not working.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

On May 9, 2:44 pm, "Fred Mann" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
> undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
> I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!

Start soaking the hardware with penetrating oil now (NOT WD-40) and
invest in a MAPP torch (or oxyacetylene, if you think you might be
doing this a lot.) also some 6 point sockets and bolt-outs if you
don't have them.

Is the manifold held on by studs or bolts? If studs, run a die down
the threads before you try to remove the nuts. Use the die
"backwards" so it cleans the threads right down to the nuts. If the
mfgr. of your vehicle was throughtful, they used copper or brass nuts
which will burn right off with a hot enough torch without damaging the
studs.

nate

"Fred Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in news:hZ0Vj.34898$3v1.19189
@bignews3.bellsouth.net:

> Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
> undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
> I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!
>
>

the only way anything will hold is to get it into the crack. JB weld
will be your best bet, if you can get a vaccume in the exaust using a
vacume cleaner or better a vaccume pump and pull the stuff into the
crack using the internal vaccume. anything else is a waste of time.
(other than the correct fix of course.) KB

--
THUNDERSNAKE #9

Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others

Fred Mann wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
> undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
> I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!


Furnace cement ought to work. Get it from a place that sells wood stoves. Follow
the instructions for filling cracks. Give it a full day to dry. You have to make
sure you get all the moisture out before you get the temp above boiling or it
will crack.

-jim.


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"jim" <".sjedgingN0sp"@m@mwt.net> wrote in message
news:1210378750_1932@isp.n...
>
>
> Fred Mann wrote:
>>
>> Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
>> undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
>> I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!
>
>
> Furnace cement ought to work. Get it from a place that sells wood stoves.
> Follow
> the instructions for filling cracks. Give it a full day to dry. You have
> to make
> sure you get all the moisture out before you get the temp above boiling or
> it
> will crack.
>
> -jim.
>
>
>It wont work either. Been there done that. It wont take the gas pressure or
>the heat. He has to live with it or replace the gasket or manifold.If its
>warped too much.

none2u wrote:
> "jim" <".sjedgingN0sp"@m@mwt.net> wrote in message
> news:1210378750_1932@isp.n...
>
>>
>>Fred Mann wrote:
>>
>>>Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
>>>undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
>>>I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!
>>
>>
>>Furnace cement ought to work. Get it from a place that sells wood stoves.
>>Follow
>>the instructions for filling cracks. Give it a full day to dry. You have
>>to make
>>sure you get all the moisture out before you get the temp above boiling or
>>it
>>will crack.
>>
>>-jim.
>>
>>
>>It wont work either. Been there done that. It wont take the gas pressure or
>>the heat. He has to live with it or replace the gasket or manifold.If its
>>warped too much.
>

I just noticed that this was posted to the VW group - what kind of car
are we talking about here? This might be the excuse you need to swap to
a dual outlet manifold/downpipe combo if it's an A1 :)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

none2u wrote:
>
> "jim" <".sjedgingN0sp"@m@mwt.net> wrote in message
> news:1210378750_1932@isp.n...
> >
> >
> > Fred Mann wrote:
> >>
> >> Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
> >> undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
> >> I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!
> >
> >
> > Furnace cement ought to work. Get it from a place that sells wood stoves.
> > Follow
> > the instructions for filling cracks. Give it a full day to dry. You have
> > to make
> > sure you get all the moisture out before you get the temp above boiling or
> > it
> > will crack.
> >
> > -jim.
> >

>It wont work either. Been there done that. It wont take the gas pressure or
>the heat.

Yes I hesitated to offer the advice because it probably won't work if not
done correctly. Furnace cement will definitely take the heat - a lot more
heat than a car exhaust usually gets. And it expands at the same rate as
iron so heat and expansion aren't a problem even if you get the exhaust
cherry red.
It won't work on tin exhaust parts that flex but for filling a crack
where it is rigid and there is no flex it shouldn't be a problem. Of
course there is a bit of skill to applying it correctly so that it adheres
and locks itself in. It won't work on furnaces and stoves either when not
applied correctly.

-jim


>He has to live with it or replace the gasket or manifold.If its
>>warped too much.


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