free frozen flare nut at radiator?

George wrote:
> ('99 Cavalier, auto, 4 cyl)
>
> I have a leaking transmission coolant line, and the flare nut where that
> goes into the radiator is pretty corroded and frozen. The transmission
> end came off OK, with just a touch of heat. The problem is, the
> radiator has a plastic resevoir. So, ...
>
> - Has anyone every (successfully) used heat there? It seems like a bad
> idea, but I thought I'd ask.
>
> - How much torque can you put on that nut? (Like, 'not a lot', or 'go
> to town'.) I'm picturing the radiator fitting breaking loose from the
> plastic, and then needing to get a new radiator.
>
> - Any other ideas?
>
> TIA,
> George

Are you replacing the line? Isn't there a flare seat that screws into
the radiator and then a flare nut that actually screws into that? I
would leave the flare seat in the radiator and then use a backup wrench
on it, then put your flare wrench on the flare nut and squeeze the two
together with one hand (that way no torque or bending force gets
transmitted to the radiator.) If you're replacing the line completely,
just cut it off and slip a 6 point box wrench on it rather than a flare
wrench. If you're trying to save it, use vice-grips to hold the end of
the flare wrench shut.

Where is the line leaking? If it's not at the fitting, and you are
trying to avoid an expensive repair, it may be easier to cut out the
damaged section of line and splice in a short piece of hose.

WARNING:

you MUST use transmission cooler line for this. Fuel line will not
work. I have personal experience with this, the end result was a car
flambe and a slipping trans after the fuel line burst and dumped trans
fluid on the downpipe (I didn't install the fuel line, just didn't
identify and replace it until after it'd burst.) For safety, I would
probably take a double flare tool and form a small "bubble" in each cut
off end, and also make sure you use the high pressure style clamps.

good luck

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Jul 20, 7:53 am, George <[email protected]> wrote:
> ('99 Cavalier, auto, 4 cyl)
>
> I have a leaking transmission coolant line, and the flare nut where that
> goes into the radiator is pretty corroded and frozen. The transmission
> end came off OK, with just a touch of heat. The problem is, the
> radiator has a plastic resevoir. So, ...
>
> - Has anyone every (successfully) used heat there? It seems like a bad
> idea, but I thought I'd ask.
>
> - How much torque can you put on that nut? (Like, 'not a lot', or 'go
> to town'.) I'm picturing the radiator fitting breaking loose from the
> plastic, and then needing to get a new radiator.
>
> - Any other ideas?
>
> TIA,
> George

I have used a product called "Kroil" as a penetrating oil. It works
better than the stuff you find at most auto stores. Find them on the
net, I think

On Sun, 20 Jul 2008 07:46:23 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:

>On Jul 20, 7:53 am, George <[email protected]> wrote:
>> ('99 Cavalier, auto, 4 cyl)
>>
>> I have a leaking transmission coolant line, and the flare nut where that
>> goes into the radiator is pretty corroded and frozen. The transmission
>> end came off OK, with just a touch of heat. The problem is, the
>> radiator has a plastic resevoir. So, ...
>>
>> - Has anyone every (successfully) used heat there? It seems like a bad
>> idea, but I thought I'd ask.
>>
>> - How much torque can you put on that nut? (Like, 'not a lot', or 'go
>> to town'.) I'm picturing the radiator fitting breaking loose from the
>> plastic, and then needing to get a new radiator.
>>
>> - Any other ideas?
>>
>> TIA,
>> George
>
>I have used a product called "Kroil" as a penetrating oil. It works
>better than the stuff you find at most auto stores. Find them on the
>net, I think

I've drowned it in PB Blaster, which has worked in other places.
(Frozen bolts around the gas tank, in particular.) In this case, I
don't think it's penetrating the threads - it's like there's almost a
glaze on them. Wire brushing hasn't helped a lot, but access is
difficult.

G

On Jul 20, 10:57 am, George <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 20 Jul 2008 07:46:23 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
> >On Jul 20, 7:53 am, George <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> ('99 Cavalier, auto, 4 cyl)
>
> >> I have a leaking transmission coolant line, and the flare nut where that
> >> goes into the radiator is pretty corroded and frozen. The transmission
> >> end came off OK, with just a touch of heat. The problem is, the
> >> radiator has a plastic resevoir. So, ...
>
> >> - Has anyone every (successfully) used heat there? It seems like a bad
> >> idea, but I thought I'd ask.
>
> >> - How much torque can you put on that nut? (Like, 'not a lot', or 'go
> >> to town'.) I'm picturing the radiator fitting breaking loose from the
> >> plastic, and then needing to get a new radiator.
>
> >> - Any other ideas?
>
> >> TIA,
> >> George
>
> >I have used a product called "Kroil" as a penetrating oil. It works
> >better than the stuff you find at most auto stores. Find them on the
> >net, I think
>
> I've drowned it in PB Blaster, which has worked in other places.
> (Frozen bolts around the gas tank, in particular.) In this case, I
> don't think it's penetrating the threads - it's like there's almost a
> glaze on them. Wire brushing hasn't helped a lot, but access is
> difficult.
>
> G

PB Blaster is pretty good; probably the best stuff you're likely to
find at your FLAPS. I have used Kroil and Wuerth Rost Off with better
success, but those are more expensive and likely mail order only. I
think the Wuerth product is probably the best I've ever used, with
Kroil a close second.

nate